Day 9: 6.4.18 - Sheffield Island

Monday and most folks are returning to work. We wait for the rains to end and the wind to abate. Then up anchor and stop at the gas dock at Fayerweather Yacht Club. Partial Eclipse took on rainwater last night, and emptying her on the dock is easier than at anchor. Kristen fashions a block of vinyl board so our three 5-gallon water tanks sit properly under the v-berth. Mike, the owner, comes out to sell us fuel and ice, and we talk cruising. Good friends of his will soon be reversing our journey and heading to Portsmouth and the coast of Maine. 

We rig for strong winds with a double reef in the main and single in the jib, but once we are out on the Sound, it is clear that the front has passed, and winds are light all day. So we shake out the reefs and enjoy an easy sail westward under full sails. Airs are much clearer today, and we get our first views of skyscrapers ahead. We pull in to the north side of Sheffield Island and drop anchor 200ft from the gravel beach. Partial Eclipse carries us ashore to this National Wildlife Refuge. We're not allowed inland, but with the threat of poison ivy, we don't want to! So we stroll the beach and check out ruins on the point of some former mansion.

Lighthouse in Long Island Sound

The Amistad, a former slave ship and now rebuilt, offers programs for inner city children

Another schooner, She's square rigged on the foremast.

The Empire State Building rising out of the water as seen from some 45 miles away in Long Island Sound.  What do you know, the Earth IS round!

Eclipse anchored off of Sheffield Island near Norwalk, CT.

Eclipse anchored in the bay at Sheffield Island

An Egret hunts for dinner on Sheffield Island

Back on board and Kristen makes Armenian Yogurt soup. Yumm. As the day fades we enjoy the sunset and watch the lights of New York City come on. 

Day 8: 6.3.18 - A Day Ashore!

Sunday morning dawned bright and sunny.  The fresh breezes of yesterday continued throughout the night and into the morning.  They would continue for the rest of this day as well.  After breakfast, we turned on the cabin heater to dry the rest of our clothing and bedding out.  We had pretty well soaked our clothes and much of the interior with our wet things from the squall yesterday.  Gary took a few moments to estimate the wind speed that we endured in the storm yesterday.  Using the Beaufort scale, it looks like we endured gale winds (Force 8) up around 40 MPH!

Late morning and we were off to explore Bridgeport!  We clambered down into Partial Eclipse and I rowed her ashore to a small beach across the bay in the community of Black Rock.  Black Rock was an independent community and although it has been absorbed by the city of Bridgeport, the local residents like to call their community by it's local name.

We cached our dinghy on the beach, stored the oars and PFD's inside her and covered over with the tarp.  Finally we locked her to a concrete block just to create enough of a deterrence against theft and we set out to explore Black Rock and to head into Bridgeport.  The streets of Black Rock paint a picture of a tightly knit seaside community.  As we strolled past houses whose front lawns were adorned with Azaleas and Roses, local residents we passed made sure to wish us a nice day and to say hello!

Cacti grow here on Connecticut!

Bridge of Locks?

We walked through the maze of small streets to arrive at the main thoroughfare and found a procession beginning a march down the main street.  The local church was parading through, celebrating the first communion of their young patrons.  The tree lined streets hosted a wide variety of Latino based businesses and restaurants.  We caught the bus into downtown Bridgeport to our intended destination of Bass Pro so that I might procure some new sneakers as the current ones I had were beginning to all apart.

Bass Pro in Bridgeport

As it happens, we took the wrong bus back and ended up at an adjoining marina in Captains's Cove where we found a band playing on the dock.  Sometimes taking a wrong turn can lead to wonderful new adventures.  We danced to a live band and stretched our muscles happily after a week of little physical activity on board Eclipse.

Dancing at Captain's Cove

As we made our way back to Eclipse, we saw a seagull hanging upside down from a piling.  The dockmaster let us in to see what we could do for the bird while he went off to tend to an incoming boat.  The crying seagull had caught his foot in a crack in the top of the piling and toppled over.  Gary ran from boat to boat on the pier looking for a boat hook.  Finally procuring one from a boat at the far end, he ambled back and I took it and pushed the bird up as he bit the pole and slid him out of his confines. The poor seagull toppled down on my head and bounced into the water below.  His leg was broken but he swam off without another sound.  We hope that he will be able to survive but at least we freed him from his captivity and ungainly position in an upside down world.

Stranded Seagull in DIstress!

We strolled back to Eclipse, jumped in our dinghy and paddled her back to our floating home.  Having scouted out a more amenable position against the upcoming storm when we were at Captain's Cove, we upanchored and motored up the channel to a new home for the night in a much quieter surroundings and protected from the wind.  Rum and Pineapple drinks helped end a pleasurable day and one which we greatly needed after yesterday's storm!

Schooner with Gaff Rigging Entering Black Rock Harbor

Of Note:  Bridgeport was once the largest city in Connecticut.  It was also the home base for P.T. Barnum and his circus animals.  Sikorsky Memorial Airport is here as well and is currently home to a renovation project to restore an old Corsair that was once one of many that was built in this facility.

P.T. Barnum once called Bridgeport, CT the home for his Circus

An exhibit on restoration of a vintage Corsair at Sikorsky Airport

Day 7: 6.2.18 - Surviving the Storm!

We awoke this morning after a very sound sleep to blue skies above and morning fog that dissipated to reveal the picturesque harbor of Stony Creek.  Pizza had been quite filling from the night prio so we opted to skip breakfast.  Untying from the public boat dock, we motored slowly and cautiously out into the harbor as the fog wrapped its fingers around the rocky islands, each of which, save for the smallest, was dotted by homes.

Eclipse at the town dock in Stony Creek.

Fog in the harbor

Fog burning off in Stony Creek Harbor

We motored for about an hour as we worked our way out into Long Island Sound, heading westward.  New Haven's mid-rise buildings could be seen as we headed out into deeper waters.  We shut down the outboard motor and raised the sail and jib only to find that our desires to move through the water on this day were not to be.  The motor was fired up and we motor-sailed into Stratford harbor where we enjoyed a wonderful curried rice and vegtetable pot that Gaery prepared.  With lunch finished, we headed back out into the sound to make our way to Bridgeport.

Things got interesting as we sailed along.  Cumulo Nimbus clouds gathered before our eyes into a towering black mass.  At first it looked like we might miss the storm altogether as it blew out across the waters behind us, but then it began to expand sideways toward us and soon we knew we had to get to Bridgeport before this storm hit us.  Motor On!  Full speed ahead!  We were making 6 knots of good progress but the storm was gaining upon us!  We stowed what we could below deck, I grabbed my raincoat and closed up the companionway.

Gary lowered the main sail and the jib so that we would not have to worry about being blown down in the storm.  It was a wise move because just as the sails came down, the winds began to howl.  We were a half mile offshore and two miles short of our destination with nowhere to hide from the storm!  Winds whipped and the seas turned white with foam.  Partial Eclipse, our dinghy, was caught by what had to be a 35 knot gust and flipped upside down.   Fortunately, her cover kept her from filling entirely with water.  She righted herself in the next gust, partially filled now with water.

Lightning cracked somewhere behind us as we motored along.  THEN the motor sputtered and died.  We had run out of gas at the worst possible moment, when we needed the most control!  We swapped out gas tank and tried to start the motor but to no avail.  She wouldn't even turn over!  Plan B!!!!  Gary threw out the anchor and we jumped inside the cabin to ride out the rains and winds and the angry seas.

A few moments of what seemed like an eternity passed and a rainbow could be seen at the end of the storm.  Gary and I examined the engine to try to ascertain what had gone wrong only to realize that when it had died, the throttle had not been in neutral..... a safety precaution by the manufacturer to prevent starting the motor in gear.  We vowed to ensure that we would never again leave port without checking the gas tank fuel level again!

First the storm seemed quite small.....

A couple of moments later and it had grown considerably....

Gary takes over at the helm

Still storming but there is light at the end of the tunnel!

Motoring into Bridgeport just after the storm.

\We motored into Bridgeport and looked for an anchorage for the night.  The perfect spot next to a beach was interrupted by the loudest sound system we had ever heard blasting out music.  Granted it was Latin music which we both enjoy, but this was ridiculously loud and with a booming bass to boot.

Oddest looking tug boat I have ever seen.

Hungarian Goulash!

Deer on shore as I put dinner together

I created a dinner of Hungarian Goulash, well..... my take on Hungarian Goulash.  The freeze dried sour cream powder was amazing and reconstituted itself to a delicious creamy consistency.   We were treated to sighting a deer on the beach as dinner was prepared. After dinner we raised sails and left Bridgeport harbor downwind to a quieter port at Black Rock Harbor some 3 nautical miles west.  If you could believe it, the booming loudspeakers could still be heard two miles out to sea.  Dark clouds broke as gusty winds from dying thunderstorms powered us at a good five knots into Black Rock.  Sails down and a short motor past the breakwater found us safely in a mooring zone with other yachts.  It had been an eventful day that would not be soon forgotten.

Day 6: 5.31.18 - Clinton to Stony Creek

Friday breaks foggy, with light rain. Visibility half mile with no wind. Can't sail in this. So we ride at our anchor, bake a quiche, watch a movie on the laptop, and wait for the weather. Finally around noon we can depart. Winds are on our tail and light. We can make between two and three knots. Four hours later our speed drops to only one, so we turn on the engine.

Visibility never gets better than two miles (often less) but we make our way west and into the Thimble Islands and the pretty town of Stony Creek. The islands are very pretty pink granite, each one supporting one or more massive summer homes with immaculate landscaping, personal bridges, and every house has a dock. The town is just as picturesque with many boats on moorings or posts and docks. We are told we can tie up to the town dock for the night, despite a sign that says otherwise. Perhaps they like the ambiance we add to their waterfront.

Rocky Thimble Islands

Homes sprinkled on the Thimble Islands

Gary stands sentinel as we wend our way through the narrow channels of the Thimble Islands.

Here we meet with my sister, Sue, her daughter Jessie, and their friend Becky, who lives in this town. Sue drives us to West Marine for parts, then they treat us to pizza overlooking the harbor. After a tour of Eclipse, we retire to Becky's where she generously runs our laundry through her machines.

Day Five: 5.31.2018 - Niantic to Clinton

Thursday dawns bright and sunny and we find ourselves climbing down a ten foot ladder to disembark from Eclipse, which is still in the boat yard in slings.  We had slept aboard her in the yard, up in the air, an interesting experience as she swung us gently to sleep.. Around 9am the crew  is ready to return Eclipse to her natural habitat. 




It's a day of easy sailing, mostly downwind with two to three foot waves. Eclipse doesn't sail directly downwind until I jury-rig one of our boat hooks as a jib pole to fly the tack of the sail out further. Toward late afternoon it looks like stratus rain up ahead, but by the time we get to Clinton Harbor, it has moved over land. Home for the night is just off the channel in about three feet of water at low tide. Kristen cooks up some rabbit for lunch and for dinner, duck legs in paprika, garlic and basil, with a pot of mac 'n cheese, extra cheesy.












Amtrak zooms by as we raise the mast and sail in Niantic bay









Millstone I nuclear power plant hangs at the entrance to Niantic Bay






Tug Boat in Niantic Bay






The tug meets up with a work barge to exchange crew and give a push






Sauteed Rabbit with garlic and cheese.






Sailboat passes by as seen from inside Eclipse.






Pan fried duck legs for dinner

Day Four: 5.30.2018 - Eclipse Gets Repaired!

Wednesday breaks thick with fog, so thick that we find ourselves in a pool of gray despite land being a close distance away. Mowing machines at work on the golf course break the peacefulness and pierce through the fog. By the time breakfast is done, cranberry nut bread using the grill as an oven, land has emerged and a bright sun beams down on us. Anchor up! My grade-school friend Roger Long lives in Niantic, so we'll visit him this evening. 

It's a beam reach all the way to Niantic but off New London the fog settles over us once more. Big high-speed ferries come in here, so we're obliged to give one long and two short blasts on our fog horn. It's doubtful they can hear us over their diesels, but they've got us on radar.

Three Bells Marina has agreed to lift Eclipse out so we can effect our repair. But first we take down both sails and lower the mast, and try to pass a rope under her hull and pull the centerboard up that way. Once under the bridges, the channel zigs and zags through the harbor as we wend our way to the marina.

The staff here is very, sometimes going out of their way to help two sailors a long way from home. They decide that since we're the last lift to be done that day, and we'll be the first in the morning, we can stay on the slings of the lift all night. Once the machine is parked, we explore the faults. Our first thought was that something was jammed in the centerboard well, but that was disproved yesterday. Perhaps the cable broke or became disconnected somehow.  We puzzle and puzz until our puzzlers are sore.  What we end up finding out after Eclipse is hauled out of the water that the point of failure is the centerboard itself, which split apart just above where the cable attaches, and the cable, with it's stop bolted to the end, has been forced up this crack about a foot. It's jammed tight, so Roger meets us and taxies us to a hardware store. A length of cable, various bolts, marine epoxy, etc.

Let's get to work. We'll need to cut the jammed cable, so I pull it down with vice grips, and to my surprise I'm able to force it back down the crack and into it's proper place! No need for a new cable with new clamps and all that. We force epoxy into the crack and close it with four bolts.  Kristen covers it all up with three layers of fiberglass cloth and more epoxy. It's warm out, we're in direct sun, and the epoxy sets up way too fast, but success is ours. Next up, showers!

Roger returns to treat us to dinner at Sunset Ribs, overlooking the channel we motored up a few hours ago. We meet Collett, his wife, and Wyatt, their son, and retire to their house afterwards for longer conversations and reminisces. Finally we settle down for the night rocking in the cradle of the lift.

The Ferry from Montauk Point emerges from the fog!  We are on edge because of poor visibility.

Three Belles Marina - Eclipse is being directed to the lift.

Eclipse on the lift as she is hauled out

Eclipse in her new home for the night as we begin work on the faulty centerboard.

Fortunately Kristen packed way more tools than was prescribed!

New bolts to hold the split centerboard and to prevent the cable from riding up into the crack again!  Kristen later fiberglassed the crack over and Gary sanded and painted

Day Three: 5.29.2018: Port Judith, RI to Fisher's Island

Tuesday May 29

Another gray morning. In our little cove winds are very calm, but once we motor out to the ocean, we have a brisk wind from the southwest. Our planned route? West-south west. Almost directly into the wind. But the wind is very steady and waves are long swells, making for pleasant sailing. On our first forays in Eclipse, about a year ago, she behaved with strong weather-helm, which means that when the wind blows hard, she'll turn her nose toward the wind. A little bit of weather-helm is good, but we were constantly fighting to keep her straight. Since then we've added a pair of skegs, a first reef point on the mainsail (she came with the second reef already), and a reef in the jibsail. We've also learned to use all those reefing points. So now Eclipse will sail herself, without any attention to the tiller. Very pleasant indeed.

Tacking west, we often come close to the Rhode Island shore, and marvel at the huge homes just behind the beach. Many of which by the time you finished vacuuming, it's time to start over. Pleasure boats are scarce on this workday, so instead we share the waters with a fleet of trawlers.

Near Watch Hill, the wind can only be found near shore. Beyond and there is no wind, plus a strong current. We have to use the motor.

Our destination is East Harbor on Fishers Island. It should give us protection from SW winds of today, and E winds for tomorrow. As we motor in, we raise the rudder and centerboard in case we encounter shallow water. But for some reason the centerboard only comes up part way. Baffled, we try to dislodge whatever might be there by motoring backwards and forward, but to no avail. So we anchor, and probe around with an underwater camera. Nothing seems amiss. Plan C, and I don my swim suit, jump in, and grope around in the centerboard well for anything. There is nothing but very cold water. Reviewing the video later, we find that the cable for uphauling the centerboard has come undone.

Just to add to the excitement, while we are troubleshooting the centerboard, the bladder tank for our sink faucet bursts and a waterfall of water pours out from its home inside the cabinet and dumps water all over the carpet in the salon. The shelf breaks off as well in the mayhem of the moment. More things to fix.

Our anchorage is quiet, and surrounded by multimillion dollar homes and a golf course. But we have a better view than they do, and we don't pay their taxes.

Osprey Nest!

Fishing Boats ply the waters off of Port Judith

Loons swimming about in a calm ocean as Eclipse passes

Large Mansions dot the Rhode Island coastline near Watch Hill, RI

Watch Hill Rhode Island hosts this replica of an 1868 hotel that once stood on this site.